Since darts are the way we give our clothing shape and contour it around the curves of our bodies, one day I decided to add darts to the back of a basic headband pattern. First I tried just one, and it helped, but it wasn't good enough. Two was much better, and after a few iterations (where to place the darts, how wide to make the headbands, how quickly to taper down to the ends) I finally settled on a final design.
I've been teaching this pattern in my sewing summer camps and the girls really love to make them. They are probably an intermediate level project since accurate cutting and sewing are important for these to really fit well. But now you don't have to take my class since I have it all for you right here!
Click here for the free pattern download!
Contoured Reversible Headband
Materials
Two pieces of fabric at least 4” x 20” (two pieces make one headband) Scraps are fine, like the ones below. Make sure they are ironed nice and smooth.
Hair elastics
Coordinating thread
Cut out templates along solid lines, cutting out dart as you go.
Instructions
Fold fabric pieces right-sides together, matching short ends. Stack on top of each other, matching folded edges.
Place template on top of fabric with straight edge of template (where it says cut on fold) aligned on the fold.
Cut fabric with a rotary cutter but DO NOT CUT DART. Just cut straight across and continue following the template.
Using template as a guide, mark the darts on the wrong side of the fabric pieces with a fabric pencil. Be sure to mark two darts on each piece.
Fold each dart with right sides together, pinch at the point and match the “legs” of the dart. If you prefer you may pin in place and repeat for all darts, or fold & sew as you go.
Sew darts along the drawn lines, backstitch at each dart point.
Press all darts to the same side (either left or right).
Place pieces with right sides together, darts should snuggle up against eachother. If you prefer pin in place. In this picture I haven't aligned the long edge because I wanted to show you how the darts are supposed to snuggle. Don't they look cozy?
Sew along one edge with a ¼” seam allowance.
Turn and repeat for the other side. DO NOT SEW the super short ends, leave them open.
Turn the headband right-side out through either opening at the ends. I like to use this handy turning tool, sold at most quilt shops and chain fabric stores.
Just shove the tool inside the headband, grab the other end with the hook...
and carefully pull it back out while rolling the fabric over itself with moist fingers (I just lick my fingers but you can use a little water if you prefer). Once you get to hear you can remove the hook and just pull it right side out with your hands.
Now your headband will look puffy, like this
So you'll need to roll your seams to the very edge, it may help to wet your fingers a little when you do this. See how the seam is pushed out to the very edge in the second photo? You want to do that along each seam.
Press your headband flat. You’ll notice the headband wants to curve so pressing on a tailors ham is helpful. You should only see one fabric on each side, not both. If you can see both fabrics on one side you didn't roll your seams properly.
Fold one skinny end of your headband in ¼”
Then wrap the end around the hair elastic.
Sew across forward and back to secure the headband to the elastic.
Repeat on the other side, being careful not to twist your headband. It helps to lay it out like this...
The finished headband!
Put it on your head and wear it proudly! Don't forget the darts go to the back, the curved part goes to the front.
I'd love to see some pictures of your finished headbands! Feel free to post in the comments below or on my facebook page: www.facebook.com/simplyseamed
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